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Zuma’s can ALWAYS use your tax-deductible cash donations. But if you can’t donate cash, have you considered all the non-cash things you could offer to help the rescued horses? Here is a list of some things the Ranch needs NOW:
- Volunteer labor
- Grass Hay 12 tons per month
- Round bale attachment for New Holland Skid Steer
- Grain: Nutrena Senior 50 lb bags
- Grain: Nutrena Youth 50 lb bags
- 29 Quest Plus wormers
- Water hose and spray nozzels (always breaking!)
- Manure forks
- 3-sided loafing sheds
- Horse-friendly fencing (labor and materials are needed for horse fencing construction. We have 146 acres…mostly unfenced. More fence= more horses that can be saved)
- Fence gates for new pastures
- Horse bedding (shavings)
- New feed wagon (the bottom fell out of ours!)
- Cobb-sized halters
- Lead ropes
- Horse shampoo & conditioner
- Mane & tail spray
- Hoof oil
- Licensed Psychotherapists who will volunteer their time
- Muck Baskets
- Feed troughs for outdoor shelters
Your donations help turn unwanted horses into useful, loving companions that can help heal the wounded hearts of the foster children in our program. Click below to watch a video about how these horses, once rehabilitated, can give back:
This past week Zuma’s Was called to help with Seven horses in need. An elderly couple in Walden Colorado cared for a small herd on their 300 acre ranch. This winter the husband died leaving the herd for his wife to care for . After a long winter and an injury to the wife, it became time to re-home the herd to people that could manage the horses.
Mary Kissam- Rocky Mountain Horse Rescue contacted me about taking some of the horses, of course Zuma’s has no space but accepted two of the horses, that is what we do step in when horses need help. There were four yearlings, two draft horses and not sure what the other was. In fact I am no longer sure of much about this particular rescue after the following trail of events. Mary Kissam stood by her word and had nothing to due with the actions of Nicole Webb.
A photo of the horses needing rescuing was sent to me and I selected two yearlings, a paint and a Palomino, I was told another person would be picking the horses up and then bringing them to me. Day two of this nightmare I this other person, Nicole Webb, that I would have to pay for the two horses and asked if I could pay for fuel to go and get them. I thought this strange but agreed to pay for the paint and the Palomino yearlings and accept delivery.
Colorado would deliver a spring snow storm the next day, so the pick up of the horses from Walden move up and the delivery of the horses to Zuma’s vanished. Mary told me that I would need to go pick the horses up in Longmont, I agreed to pick the horses up.
While making arrangements to re-feed theses horses, Nicole told me that the horses were in poor shape, I asked Nicole what the Henneke score on the little guys was so that I would know how to begin the feeding process. Nicole then stated that she did not score rescue horses and then she questioned me as to whether or not Zuma’s could handle these horses.
Given that the horses were in poor shape I asked Nicole if the horses could stay with her for a week or so to gain some strength, Nicole said NO.I was told that she was not set up to keep them even, though I offered to cover the cost bring hay for them, they could not stay. So the very next day I receive an email from Nicole stating the horses were too sick to move and they would be at her place indefinitely. Seems strange that Nicol could not keep them at all one day then the very next day they are staying with her until further notice. Obviously Nicole had another agenda here and was creating a story to fit her agenda.
The story unravels more, I then receive an email stating that the paint that I rescued had already been adopted by Nicoles’ friend and it would be not coming to Zuma’s at all, but that I needed to pick up the two Palominos that very same day. It was now obvious that Nicole was a dishonest person with an agenda, and that she had lied to me to have things unfold her way. Needless to say I stepped away from this all together.
I surely hope those horses have good homes, for the stories I have heard of a “Rescue” that also breeds horses…… is NOT a rescue at all. Anyone that breeds when there are so many horses needing homes is not a true rescue by any stretch.This is why we so badly need regulations for people calling themselves rescues.
This is why I am so glad to be in the process of becoming a nationally recognized horse rescue myself, and I hope that the IRS will strip all rescues that do not comply with the new national regulations of the 501C3 status.
This industry of rescues is full of people that have no boundary with what they do and it is high-time that the Global Federation of Animal Sanctuaties and Executive Director Patty Finch take this industry by the horns and weeds out those that do not belong.
I have heard more horror stories of so called rescues hoarding horses and placing them in horrible conditions.Or Horse Rescues that take horses in for themselves and collection donations to care for them. Rescues that simply make money from selling horses, never following up on the horses they sell.
Horse Rescues are often times seedy causing the industry to look bad as a whole and making it hard on legitimate horse rescues out here doing the right thing by these poor horses.
Beware of any horse rescue that also breeds horses. Also do through background checks on the people you are dealing with, if you suspect foul play contact the Global Federation of Horse Rescue, Patty Finch.
Be the Voice the Horse does not have.
All too often we bring in pregnant mares from auctions and feed lots at Zuma’s Rescue Ranch. It is important to acknowledge the additional level of care required by these mares (on top of refeeding and re-establishing overall health) during their pregnancies, especially with rough winter months ahead.
If you bred your mare sometime in late spring, she should be well on her pregnancy journey by now. Winter care for pregnant mares should focus on maintaining healthy nutrients in her diet and making sure she and her unborn baby are getting enough to eat.
In the 5th, 7th and 9th months (generally fall and winter depending on when you’ve bred, you’ll need to give the mare rhino pneumonitis vaccine. Generally not a problem in adult horses, the disease can cause pregnant mares to abort.
Feed your ever-widening mare frequent meals supplemented with the proper minerals. Studies show that plump mares have fewer problems with pregnancy, but as the baby grows it becomes harder for her to eat large meals. Smaller, more frequent feedings ensure she’s getting enough feed. Supplement with a mineral mix that’s right along with your feed. Some veterinarians recommend a commercial mineral mix containing 25 percent salt to increase the palatability of the mineral supplement.
Take the time to prepare the foaling stall in the winter. Hammer in any sharp nails; get rid of other hazards that could cause harm to the newborn and its mother. Buy and store several bales of straw in case the big day comes early. And read up on foaling, especially if it’s your very first baby.
Overall, mares are fairly self-sufficient. As long as they are warm enough, getting enough to eat, receiving the right nutrients, they fare pretty well during the winter months. They can even be ridden lightly up until the 9th month.
Adapted from www.myhorse.com’s Seasonal Health Articles.
With all the concern over the H1N1 flu, influenza is very much in the news these days. And although horses can get influenza, too, the good news is, you’re not likely to “catch it” from your horse. Even so, there are things you’ll want to know about equine influenza.
As a rule, influenza viruses have strict requirements for survival and transmission. Horses, people, birds, etc., are generally only infected by the specific strains that affect that particular species. However, on occasion, viruses do develop the ability to “jump” species, like the bird flu did in Asia.
When a species jump happens, the disease tends to be particularly severe. Unfortunately, because the immune system of the new host species has never been exposed to it before, it has no antibodies or specific cellular defenses to recognize and destroy the invader. The virus, in effect, gets a head start of 10 days to two weeks on the immune system.
Until the sophisticated arms of the immune system can get up to speed, the work of fighting the virus falls to the primitive immune system. That means the new host responds with exaggerated inflammatory responses. The body’s extreme reaction makes the animal or person feel very sick and can damage more tissue than a more sophisticated immune reaction would.
Fortunately, it’s a relatively rare occurrence for influenza to jump species. However, influenza viruses within their own species can cause enough problems as it is.
Catching the Flu
A horse catches the flu by inhaling virus particles that become airborne when an infected horse coughs or sneezes. Therefore, to contract influenza, a horse has to be relatively close to an infected horse.
The need for proximity explains why horses that are not exposed to other horses have little risk of coming down with influenza. Outbreaks tend to occur when horses are brought together in large groups and are in close contact, such as at shows, racetracks and inside boarding stables. The more horses you bring together, the higher the odds that one of them will have influenza and can spread it to the others.
There is no “flu season” per se, and outbreaks can and do occur year-round. However, just like with people, when horses are together in an enclosed area with poor circulation, the amount of virus particles in the air can rise sharply. Barns that are closed up tightly in the winter, horse trailers and vans, and indoor show facilities are particularly high risk environments.
Foals with no immunity to influenza viruses, and older horses or sick horses with poor immune responses, are the most vulnerable to infection. Otherwise, the combination of vaccination and repeated low-level natural exposures keeps most horses free of the disease unless they are in close quarters with a horse producing very large amounts of virus.
There hasn’t been a large-scale influenza outbreak in the United States since the early 1980s, but it could happen at any time. Epidemics tend to occur when the virus mutates in a way that it avoids triggering a “memory” immune response. When this happens, even vaccinated horses are unprotected. Epidemics also occur when imported horses bring influenza virus into a part of the world that had previously been free of the disease. The virus is well established in the United States and Europe, but many other countries are largely free of flu.
Adapted from Eleanor Kellon, VMD’s www.myhorse.com article.
Below are Equus Magazine’s commonsense answers to some of the most asked horse blanketing questions! Happy Fall!
Q: What weather conditions are hardest on horses? When is blanketing most beneficial?
A: Cold wind causes horses the greatest discomfort and more rapidly saps their energy because it whips away body heat faster than any other condition. Cold rain is a close second, chilling the skin through conduction and flattening of the hairs’ insulating loft. “In Washington we get a lot of rain, and it can be below freezing for two to three months, though seldom below zero,” says Foss. “But I think that 35 degrees and rain is much harder to deal with than lower temperatures.”
Still air, frigid temperatures and snowfall are not particularly chilling to horses already adapted to colder regions. Snow accumulates atop their long winter coats without penetrating to the skin or drawing away body heat. In fact, that layer of snow serves as a sort of insulated blanket over the haircoat.
In extreme or severe weather conditions, shelter–stabling, sheds, windbreaks or other forms of natural cover–are better protection from the elements than a single garment. If you blanket your horse to protect him against wind and cold rain, use a waterproof garment to keep the rain from soaking the fabric and penetrating the haircoat.
Q: Do blankets really prevent the growth of the winter coat?
A: Horses grow two coats each year, beginning just after the summer and winter solstices, and blanketing does not prevent this natural cycle. Exterior temperatures are not the triggers for these seasonal changes and, in fact, your horse’s winter coat has begun growing while you’re still donning shorts and T-shirts. By the time you think about blanketing your horse, his winter coat is well under way.
A trigger deep in the horse’s brain responds to both increasing and decreasing daylight and relays messages to the rest of the body to prepare for the coming season. In mid- to late August, after two months of diminishing daylight hours, the horse’s winter coat clears the skin’s surface. About that same time, the summer coat begins to fall out, with peak shedding occurring around the fall equinox. You aren’t as aware of this annual event as you are of spring shedding because shorter hairs are flying about. Unlike the uniformity of the summer coat, the winter coat is made up of assorted hair lengths, including short, fine hairs and long “guard” hairs. Local climate influences the winter coat’s characteristics, so that horses living in the Sunbelt grow shorter winter coats than northern horses.
The winter coat grows until close to the end of the calendar year. The next summer’s coat starts sprouting in the hair follicles in January, and by late March the loosening winter coat begins falling out as the shorter replacement hairs move into place.
Blanketing won’t prevent the growth of the winter coat, but it does cause the hair to grow in shorter because the environment beneath the blanket is warmer. When consistently covered, the horse’s body thinks it’s in a South Carolina mini-climate even if the reality is wintry Wisconsin. Blanketing also flattens the hairs, creating an appearance of greater smoothness and sleekness in the naturally more disorderly winter coat. If maintaining a short, sleek coat is your objective, include the horse’s neck in your coverage; when left unprotected, the neck hairs continue to grow luxuriantly to fend off the cold.
Q: If I want to keep my horse’s winter coat shorter, at what temperature or in what month do I need to begin blanketing him? When can I stop blanketing him in the spring?
A: There’s no specific blanketing chronology that guarantees a shorter, slicker winter coat. Blanketing “season” is determined by personal preference along with the local meteorological conditions, such as day length and nighttime temperatures. Sometime in the lingering days of summer and early autumn, your horse’s coat begins to look a bit more ruffed up and woolly. This is the time to begin tricking the horse’s thermostat into believing he’s a south Texan. Daytime conditions are often still sunny and mild at this time, and blanketing horses round-the-clock risks daily overheating. The wise choice is to begin nighttime blanketing with a light cover when overnight temperatures hit 50 degrees or less.
“When I was in Montana, we had 60-degree variations where temperatures went from 85 to 25 degrees in a 24-hour period,” says Peters. “Anytime it gets down to the low 40s, especially if you have a major daily temperature fluctuation, it’s a good time to start blanketing. In Montana, that can be late September, early October or even August. In California, you may not blanket until November.”
The same guideline serves in reverse when it’s time to put the blankets away in the spring. Most owners begin weaning their horses of their layers during the daytime and ultimately celebrate the end of blanketing once nighttime temperatures remain above 50 degrees. In northern or mountainous regions, that may not occur until midsummer.
Q: What should I look for in a well-fitted blanket? Are certain styles better suited to particular body types?
A: Evaluating a blanket’s fit is a combination of measuring, testing and “eyeballing.”
- Blankets are sized by length, measuring from the center of the horse’s chest back to his tail. Standard sizes range from 64 inches for small ponies to 90 inches for large draft horses. Careful measuring of the horse you’re clothing is the key to selecting a blanket that gives him full, comfortable coverage.
- Withers fit is critical to the horse’s comfort and the blanket’s stability. A well-fitted blanket rests comfortably over the withers and shoulders and produces no pressure or rubbing as the horse moves or reaches down to graze or feed. “Cutback” designs with their U-shaped openings at the start of the topline may be better suited to horses with high withers; high-necked blankets that place the opening midway up the neck rather than at its base are also comfortable for most horses. Flat or low withers pose fitting problems because blankets are more prone to slip around and even roll to one side. Straps encircling the horse’s hind legs may prevent the blanket from slipping beneath the horse, but they don’t keep the blanket centered. Low-withered horses may have to be fitted with a roller/surcingle to keep their blankets in place.
- Loosely fitting garments are subject to shifting and rubbing and can entangle the horse’s legs. Jenny Bates, manager of George Morris and Chris Kappler’s Hunterdon show barn, observes that this type of misfit often occurs on horses whose shoulders protrude. “People tend to buy too large a blanket, and it slips back, putting more pressure on points of the shoulder,” she says. “In that case I like the blanket to fit higher up around the base of the neck.”
- A well-fitted blanket covers the horse’s barrel entirely, hanging to below his elbows and stifles. Big-bodied animals, such as warmbloods, may require oversize blankets for full coverage.
Proper adjustment of the fasteners is critical to blanket safety. Adjust the surcingle so that you can slide your flat hand between it and your horse’s belly. “If it’s hanging down four to six inches,” says Peters, “a horse can easily stick a foot in there when he lies down.” The hind-leg straps require a little play to allow the horse freedom of movement, but if they are hanging down to the hocks, they, too, can catch on things. To prevent the leg straps from rubbing the gaskins and to make the blanket more secure, either loop the leg straps through one another before fastening them on the same side or crisscross them by clipping them to the opposite sides of the blanket.
Q: My horse’s blanket seems to fit well, yet after a few months of wearing it, he has unsightly rub marks on his shoulders. Is there a way to prevent these bald patches or at least to encourage the hair to grow back quickly?
A: Shoulder rubs are not necessarily a sign of an ill-fitting blanket. Just light pressure and friction affect the haircoat, which acts as a buffer to protect the skin from this sort of wear. For some horses, sufficient rubbing may occur in a day’s time to change the look of the hair, and irreversible damage for that season’s coat can occur almost before you notice. Typically, in the early stages, patches of hair look roughed up or dull, and once the hair shafts are injured, there’s nothing that will mend them.
“Conformation makes some horses susceptible to rubs,” says Peters. “They are broader through the shoulders.” Fitting the horse with another style of blanket may relieve the rubs, but less expensive options can smooth over the few rough spots of an otherwise well-fitting blanket. Covering the horse’s neck and shoulders with a stretchy “undergarment”–almost like an equine sports bra–absorbs the friction created by the blanket.
Another solution is to line the blanket with a buffer layer. “I’ve seen baby diapers pinned to the insides of blankets when people don’t want to buy another blanket with a different design,” says Peters. Fleece may also be sewn into the front of the blanket as a permanent modification. The simplest approach is a daily spritz of silicone grooming spray on the inside of the blanket to decrease the friction against the hair.
If a horse gets chafed by his blanket, the marks remain until he sheds. Says Peters, “Some people use vitamin E, aloe vera or other creams and ointments [to encourage hair growth], but I’m not sure that any of them helps.” Some “cat hairs” may pop up in the bald areas, but the coverage will remain sparse until the summer coat starts to surface in February or March.
Q: Are the benefits of high-tech materials used in blanket manufacture worth the extra expense compared to blankets made from traditional fabrics?
A: The ideal blanket is lightweight; it “breathes” by allowing the passage of air; it’s waterproof; it’s insulated to hold heat close to the horse; it resists tears and stains and repels dirt. The more of these qualities a blanket has, the better, but these features come at a cost–hundreds of dollars for designs incorporating the same high-tech fabrics and fabrication techniques used in high-end outdoor wear for people.
Horse owners who choose the new over the traditional justify the higher purchase prices because of the reduced costs for blanket repairs and replacement garments. “We used to always use New Zealand rugs [for turning out], but they’ve become hard to find,” says Bates, who has worked at the Hunterdon barn since 1994. “I was forced to buy the newer products this year, and so far, they are holding up. They are also easier to clean.”
Q: How can I tell if my horse is too hot or too cold under his blanket(s)?
A: Sweating is the most obvious sign that a horse is overheated, and a blanketed horse sweats first beneath the material, then along the neck and behind the ears. Overheating typically occurs in horses turned out during warming daytime weather in the same heavy blankets needed for still-cold nights. When temperatures rise from early morning teens to midday 50s, horses in heavy turnout rugs are likely to sweat. Blanketed horses who go on a romp or fear-driven run may also work up a sweat, which then turns clammy and cool under their blankets as they resume standing around in the cold air. On days of significant temperature swings from chilly to warm, err on the side of less turnout clothing. Horses can raise their temperature to the comfort zone by moving around or basking in a sheltered, sunny spot, but when blanketed they have no cooling alternative other than sweating.
Cold horses reveal their discomfort by shivering, which is a reflexive action of the muscles generating more body heat. Clipped horses who are insufficiently blanketed for the current weather conditions can become thoroughly chilled, particularly when they are unable to move around at will. Heavily covered horses can become chilled if their own sweatiness or rain-soaked blankets press their hair flat and hold the moisture against their skin. Shivering for an hour isn’t a health risk, but over several hours, the horse is sapped of energy, his core body temperature begins to drop, and he becomes increasingly vulnerable to infectious or opportunistic diseases. Blankets alone are not adequate protection for outdoor horses through periods of bleak weather and are no substitute for physical shelter against wind and rain, such as sheds and windbreaks.
Q: How soon can I blanket after riding? Is it safe to cover a horse while he is still sweaty from exercise or wet from precipitation?
A: It’s best to blanket your horse only after he has cooled down and his hair is dried. Unless the blanket is permeable, it will trap the moisture closer to his skin, slowing the drying period and lengthening the time it takes for a hot horse to return to normal body temperature. To speed up the drying process you can rub him down with a dry towel. Another tactic is to cover the cooling horse as you walk him with a wool or acrylic cooler, the equine version of a sweatshirt that draws moisture away from the horse’s hair and into the fabric, where it then evaporates. You can make do with a blanket of unbreathable material by stuffing a layer of soft straw or hay under the blanket to allow air to pass over the damp coat.
Q: Is there any point to layering blankets according to increments in temperature?
A: A 10-degree temperature change is not cause to pile on more layers or change blankets, particularly when horses are stabled or have outdoor shelter. In times and locales with significant temperature fluctuations–from 15 to 55 degrees in a single day, for example, or in climates where wintertime lows range from 32 degrees to below zero–you’ll need several blankets of varying thickness if you’re going to keep the horses comfortably covered throughout the season. Even if a single medium-weight blanket is all your stabled horse needs for the winter, you’ll probably find it handy to have an alternate cover in case the primary blanket gets damaged, dirtied or thoroughly soaked.
Greater complexity of blanketing routines–layering formulas and frequent changes–produces management benefits when the horses’ comfort and well-being are the guiding principles. At the Hunterdon barn, based in Pittstown, New Jersey, all of the 40-some horses are blanketed except for the turned-out retirees. Each horse has about four blankets, and in the dead of winter, they may wear three layers at a time. “Our horses have very short coats because they are clipped year-round [for competition],” says Bates, “so we have to be conscientious about how they are blanketed. When we layer, we use a cotton sheet on the bottom, then a thick wool blanket with no straps and a Baker blanket on top of that. All horses have different temperatures just like people, and you learn that some horses need less clothing.”
Q: Should horses always be blanketed when they are transported in winter?
A: If you’ve ever stood in an enclosed trailer with several horses, you know that plenty of body heat is generated and retained in that small space. When considering how to dress your horse for the road, be most concerned about his respiratory health, and opt for good ventilation and just enough clothing to fend off chills. The weather conditions, trailer/van type and number of passengers all contribute to the interior temperature.
“We keep the windows open on the van and blanket less,” says Bates. “With all those bodies, they get hot on the trucks.”
When horses are already reliant on blanketing during their daily lives, they will need some coverage, but a stable sheet or lightweight blanket may suffice in enclosed vehicles. Unclipped, never-blanketed horses may not need additional covers when transported in a draft-free, mostly enclosed conveyance, but in stock trailers or other airy vehicles, they’ll need a blanket when temperatures dip to freezing or below.
This article originally appeared in the December 2001 issue of EQUUS magazine.
As the days get shorter and the nights get colder, keep in mind some of these tips from about.com’s Katherine Blocksdorf when preparing your horse (and yourself) for cold weather riding:
- Ask your farrier about shoes with pads and ice caulks
- Riding in the snow is harder work for your horse – plan the length and intensity of your ride accordingly
- Work at a slower pace so your horse does not sweat as much
- Plan extra time to cool down – wet horses can get too cold
- If your horse is used to being in the barn, use a quarter sheet to keep his/her muscles warm while exercising
- Wear layers
- Be sure your winter riding boots are not too bulky – if they are you run the risk of getting a foot wedged in your stirrup
- If snowballs form in your horses hooves while riding, put a coating of petroleum jelly on the bottom of the hooves before you ride
- Warm up your horse’s bit before putting it in his/her mouth – no one wants to chomp down on cold metal
- Working in the cold can be very dehydrating, so be sure to pack water and snacks to keep yourself energized
I thought it’d be fun to throw in some “comic relief” posts for our readers every now and then! We all love to laugh and make Zuma’s Rescue Ranch an uplifting experience, why not add some laughs to the blog as well?
Now, take no offense, as this comes from a former blonde herself!
Have a great day!
A blonde decides to learn and try horse back riding assisted without any experience or lessons.
She mounts the horse with great effort, and the tall, shiny horse springs into motion.
It gallops along at a steady and rhythmic pace, but the blonde begins to slip from the saddle.
Out of shear terror, she grabs for the horse’s mane but cannot seem to get a firm grip.
She tries to throw her arms around the horse’s neck, but slides down the side of the horse anyway.
The horse gallops along, seemingly oblivious to its slipping rider.
Finally, giving up her frail grip, she leaps away from the horse to try and throw herself to safety.
Unfortunately, her foot has become entangled in the stirrup.
She is now at the mercy of the horse’s pounding hooves as her head is struck against the ground again and again.
As her head is battered against the ground, she is moments away from unconsciousness or even death when Todd, the Wall-Mart Manager, runs out to turn the horse off.
PST is the ONLY therapeutic modality that is PATENTED to stimulate cartilage growth!
PST, or Pulsed Signal Therapy is a new medical treatment now being offered to effectively treat osteoarthritis, hip dysplasia, degenerative joint disease, rheumatoid disease, back pain and sports-type injuries (i.e. suspensory injuries) in animals. Pulsed Signal Therapy significantly relieves the severity of joint pain, tenderness and swelling and improves mobility, allows restful sleep and restores the activities of daily living without drugs or surgery. The results have been shown to be long-term.
PST consists of pulsed signals that mimic the normal healthy physiological signals, transmitted into the joint to promote the repair of damaged cells and to stimulate the repair and maintenance processes. PST focuses on the cause of the symptoms: the breakdown of cartilage and joint tissue. Pain and swelling can occur when the cartilage wears due to degenerative joint disease, overuse or injury. Pulsed Signal Therapy reproduces the bio-physically correct restoration signal and directs it into the joint, stimulating the existing cartilage and other damaged structures to repair themselves and therefore function more efficiently, thus accelerating the convalescent period and restoring the joint’s function.
Horses receive ten treatments on consecutive days. The joint or body area is positioned within the PST device that emits the bio-physiological pulsed signal. Pulsed Signal Therapy is administered with the goal to reach short and long-term reduction of pain and a return to full functionality while improving the pet’s quality of life.
The overall cost of PST is comparable to that of long-term or analgesic drug use and is a non-invasive, totally painless therapeutic modality without any known or reported side effects. This is a perfect alternative to the harmful side effects of long term drug use.
PST technology was developed by biophysicist and medical doctor, Richard Markoll, MD, PhD. Initial Double-blind placebo controlled clinical studies conducted under the direction of the Yale University School of Medicine on humans and published in the highly respected Journal of Rheumatology indicate that more than 70% of patients treated showed a significant improvement. Clinical studies, conducted around the world, have confirmed the initial results. To date, over a half million people and thousands of animals have received PST treatment at 750 clinics worldwide.
Zuma’s Rescue Ranch is proud to offer PST treatment onsite. For more information or to schedule therapy for your horse on site, please contact us by telephone at (303) 346-7493 or by email, email@example.com. Your horses do not have to lead a dimished quality of life or be put down due to injury. Pulsed Signal Therapy can save your horse from a life of pain and damage due to prolonged drug treatment, as well as save you money in the long run.
Adapted from http://www.mtavet.com/PSTPulsedSignalTherapy.htm.
It is as important in winter to provide water as it is in the summer. Read Katherine Blocksdorf’s advice on how to keep up with your horse’s watering needs.
How Much Water Does a Horse Need?
The needs of individual horses will differ greatly. Things that affect the amount of water a horse needs are:
- Air Temperature
- Work load
- Feed (grass vs dry fodder)
- Pregnant or nursing mare
Insufficient water can contribute to poor health. Dehydration can be deadly. Lack of water can cause impactions leading to colic, especially during the winter months, when a horse’s diet may consist almost solely of dry hay. Water can also carry bacteria or viruses that can make your horse sick.
How Can I Supply Water?
Buckets or automatic waterers can be used in stables. Automatic waterers are convenient, but it is difficult to monitor how much water your horse is drinking should you need to. Some horses won’t know how to use them at first, or some won’t like them because of the noise some waterers make. Buckets are easier to clean, but heavier to carry. They can spill unless safely secured.
Winter Water Concerns
If you live in an area where the water can freeze, heaters will be needed. Trough heaters will prevent outdoor supplies from freezing and keep the water at a palatable temperature. Horses may not drink enough water if it is very cold. Ice should be cleared, and the water temperature well above freezing if you don’t have heaters. Ice can be knocked from plastic pails with a rubber mallet, but it is time consuming and can result in the pail breaking. Hot water can be used to take the chill off of the cold water, but of course the effect is temporary.
In the pasture you may be able to rely on a natural water source such as a spring fed pond, or stream. Alternative water sources will be needed during freezing weather. The banks of ponds and streams should be safe for horses to get to the water. If the bank becomes too slippery the horses may not be able to safely approach or get out of the water. Unsafe water sources should be fenced off. A horse can not eat enough snow to provide adequate moisture.
Automatic systems whether they are indoors or out should be checked daily to be sure they are functioning and that they are not soiled. Cords of heated water buckets and trough heaters should be checked and secured so curious horses can not play with them. Both heated buckets and heaters should be plugged into a properly wired GIFC.
How do I Keep the Water Supply Fresh?
Troughs or automatic waterers can be used outdoors. Troughs and waterers will need to be cleaned and refilled regularly. Leaves, chaff, insects, and other debris should be cleared out daily. Containers can be scrubbed out with a bristle brush and vinegar, then rinsed well. The frequency will depend on how clean the water stays and how quickly the algae grows. I find I clean my trough at least once a week during the hot summer months and less frequently during the colder weather.
The water quality in natural sources may not be safe and should be monitored. Your local health unit or agricultural extension should be able to advise you on how to test the water for safety.
Approximate Water Consumption By Horse Weight
|900 lbs/410 kg||3 gal/ 13.5 l||4.5 gal/ 20 l||6 gal/ 27 l|
|1200 lbs/545 kg||4 gal/ 18 l||6 gal/ 27 l||8 gal/ 36 l|
|1500 lbs/680 kg||5 gal/ 22.5 l||8 gal/ 36 l||10 gal/ 45 l|
|Chart from Recommended Code of Practice for the Care and Handling of Farm Animals -Horses, Canadian Agri-Food Research Council, 1998|
The horse industry in the United States contributes $39 billion in direct economic impact to the US economy and supports 1.4 million jobs on a full-time basis, according to a new study released today by the American Horse Council (AHC). When indirect and induced spending are included, the industry’s economic impact reaches $102 billion. The study also estimates the horse population in this country has reached 9.2 million.
The study, conducted by Deloitte Consulting, LLC over the last year, was commissioned by the American Horse Council Foundation with major funding support from the American Quarter Horse Association, The Jockey Club, the National Thoroughbred Racing Association and Breeders’ Cup Limited, Keeneland Association, American Paint Horse Association, American Association of Equine Practitioners, U.S. Trotting Association, Thoroughbred Owners and Breeders Association and the U.S. Equestrian Federation.
The study, titled The Economic Impact of the Horse Industry in the United States, is the most comprehensive research document ever compiled on the American horse industry (the media can access a summary of the report at http://www.horsecouncil.org).
Read more here.